Friday 31 July 2015

Day 38 - Wandering the Old Quarter, visiting a market and relaxing before Sapa


My laundry - I was impressed.

Day 38 - 31st July

So I woke up and packed in the dark, trying not to wake my roommates or fall over their explosion of luggage all over the floor. I don't know why when they all stomped in early this morning pissed up but somebody's got to have some manner, huh?

I headed out, indulging in a breakfast doughnut that I thought was 70,000 but was infact 7,000. It was pretty sweet, both in taste and as a breakfast choice.

I then set off looking for my usual two souvenir items - magnet for Mum, postcard for Nanna. After a brief wander, I found my postcard. I sat with the owner whilst I filled it out and we had a long talk about living in England, how much I loved Hanoi and the Vietnamese people and how I liked the lifestyle I was currently enjoying. Not working is strange sometimes but also bloody awesome.

So many nuts and seeds.

Just mind boggling the stuff you can find here.

So many shoes - my sister would love it here!

Shortly after trying to sell me a bike, I headed away from the postcard stop and moved four streets up to the local market. My word, so much stuff in such a small space. Watches, shoes, lingerie, scarfs, nuts and seeds, souvenirs, football shirts and cello tape. I was overwhelmed.

Just the average stock load to carry on a bike in Hanoi.

I found my magnet and came away happy. I navigated my way back through the streets, gawping at the sights and sounds and readying myself for Sapa.

So before I knew it, it was eight thirty. I'd been out for a fried rice dinner with sausage, bacon and vegetables. Combining this with anti-malarial tablets was a terrible idea. I suddenly felt nauseous, had heart burn and knew I was going to board a night bus in less than half an hour. Bugger!

It reached nine thirty and still no bus. With my other travelling companions for the trip, we were starting to get agitated. Dylan was delighted to get his laundered underwear back, Sebastian was eager to see the end of Enemy at the Gates and Jordy was enjoying the Oreos and Pringles prior to the off.

Soon after, we were led out onto the streets of the Old Quarter and to our night bus. After removing my shoes, I slipped into my bus bunk. It was cramped, my leg space was occupied by my bag and I had heartburn. Not the best start.

The middle didn't get any better when a group of Koreans jumped on, creating a racket and disturbing the rest of us from sleeping. It was pretty horrendous.

And following suit with the rest of the story, the bus kept stopping, I got a dead leg and I couldn't sleep with the sickness from the anti-malarials tablets.

Roll on Sapa!

Thursday 30 July 2015

Day 37 - Vietnam Museum of History, Hoa Lo Prison and the Hõ Chi Minh Mausoleum


The fun chaos in Hanoi

Day 37 - 30th July

So Hanoi is fast becoming my favourite city of the trip. Sorry to Shanghai and Hong Kong but this place is different. It has the big city feel but without all the high rise. I love the hustle and bustle, th mopeds speeding past me and the general friendliness of the locals. They are so good to talk too.



So I headed straight for the Vietnam Museum of History. After a sweaty walk (I defy anyone to do it without sweating) I made it. The museum was extraordinary, with some impressive pieces and information about the past. For instance, I did to know in my brother's birthday in 1954 - October 10th, that Hanoi was where Vietnam declared its independence once more. I was an uneducated swine!

There were some awful conditions that men and women were subjected to here.

After a few hours wandering the corridors, I made my way to Hoa Lo prison, where I've experienced a real eye opener. The savagery and sheer scale of brutality towards the Vietnamese people in the early 20th century before the movement was incredible. I honestly felt sick to thing that this sort of evil went on.

How the prison once looked.

Hõ Chi Minh Mausoleum

After another few hours, I headed to the Hõ Chi Minh Mausoleum and spent time wondering with my thoughts. It was a great place to visit and one highlight of my trip so far. I will look back on it with fond memories already.

On my way back to my hostel, I stopped at Caps 'n' Taps, a bar in Hàng Ba. It was 30,000 Vietnamese Dong (95p) for one beer, plus I got one free. So I had a couple of rounds and enjoyed myself. Crazy money again.

The BBQ Pork and Mushroom for dinner.

Then I booked my trip to Sapa, leaving at 9pm onFriday night on a night bus. I'm really looking forward to that. So I headed out to get some food, wandered in the rain, feeling free and then watched Enemy at the Gates with some random sin the movie room.

Not a bad end to a busy day of walking!


Day 36 - Hoan Kiem Lake, school kids and the Old Quarter

The Ngoc Son Temple

Day 36 - 29th July

So the rain seems to follow me around, everywhere! I step outside and again it's raining. Come on.

The entranceway to The Ngoc Son Temple 

Adamant that it wouldn't dampen my spirits, both metaphorically and literally, I headed to Hoam Kiem lake to see what the fuss was about. The Ngoc Son Temple was spectacular, but as I've found with most temples in Asia, the precision and pride they take in these places of worship is nothing short of faultless. You can really feel and see how much it means to them.

Turtle Tower

I nearly slipped arse over head on the bridge in my grip-less Toms but I managed to maintain my dignity when I walked all the way around the lake as the rain battered me.

As I made my way towards King Ly Thai To Monument, just off of the lake, I was approached by 30 or so children with four teachers. They asked if I could spare them fifteen minutes, which I duly obliged. Why not, I thought - they want to learn, I want to learn.


Those kids were good fun!

I spoke to them about life in England, what I liked to do,playing football and being a writer. As a gift for my time, they presented me with Nhan (meaning Logan) fruit and said I should try it in front of them. I put one in my mouth and started chewing as a sense of panic rushed around me, telling me I had to peel it first. I spat it out and peeled one bit before trying again. It wasn't bad, tasting like a hard pear and I thanked them in Vietnamese - cảm ơn (pronounced Kahm Uhn.)

The rain persisted and I was soaked so I pushed back to the hostel and took refuge. I did some laundry for $2 and then I saw Matthijs in the Skyview Bar, who was supposed to be going to Halong Bay but due to a typhoon, his trip had been cancelled.

A serious note to the tourists and locals affected by the typhoon, as well as the families of the 14 who were killed on a junk sinking, including a Vietnamese guide - my thoughts go out to you. It was a terrible tragedy and something that never should have happened.

Matthijs and I talked about missing home, the people we missed most and about my writing, his ambitions. Another one of those talks! After he left at six for another tour, I headed back to my room to do some writing, waiting for the heavy rain to pass.

When it did, I went out and found some dinner locally and spent $2.50 on a plate of beef, carrots, sweet potato and rice with a Hanoi beer. What a deal.

I then retired to bed, ready for a busy next day!

Day 35 - Hello to Hanoi

My first photo in Vietnam! What a prat!

Day 35 - 28th July

So I was sitting on the Hong Kong Air plane next to a guy who looked like Psy from Gangnam Style (it was his suit more than his appaearance before someone shouts racist.) Nice chap, he chose to push his elbows out right over my side of the arm rest. Being the diplomatic fellow that I am, I decided to expand my legs out to take up his side of the leg room. England 1-1 China.

Throughout the flight, they gave us food and he dropped his meat sandwich straight in his lap. England 2-1 China.

Then when we landed, he chose to barge his way to get his luggage from overhead but neglected to think that I had the upper hand because I was sitting on the aisle. I left the plane first whilst he got left behind. All in all, England 3-1 China.

Anyway, enough of that.

I arrived in Hanoi airport, ready to be interrogated about my movements. To my surprise, the customs officer looked at me, stamped my passport and waved me on. Cracking start. Then I collected my bag within ten minutes and moved out to get my taxi.

The taxi took me an hour for $15 which was pre-arranged by the hotel. I know I could of got it cheaper maybe but it was just easier. I was amazed at the mopeds flying around everywhere, and the sound of car horns tooting each other made me laugh.

The Central Backpackers Hostel owner welcomed me when I stepped inside, shook me by the hand and told me to just sit back and let his staff take care of me. I was liking Vietnam already. I was provided wi the details of trips to Sapa and Halong Bay along with free breakfast vouchers and free beer vouchers from 7-8pm everyday in the Skyview Bar on the 8th floor of the hostel. Geez, now I really loved Vietnam.

Trung, Matthijs, Sam and me

After a quick change, I headed upstairs and grabbed my free beer. I perched up on a table with a random guy and introduced myself. This chap happened to be Dutch by the name of Matthijs. We struck up a bond over Man Utd and he told me how he had a couple of coaching sessions with Van Gaal, how he'd been to Brazil and what brought him to Vietnam.

I'm so hiiighhh

We indulged in laughing gas balloons with the proprietor, Trung of the Skyview Bar and the two trashed talked over games of futsbol. Entertaining to say the least, especially when they kept shout "I'm so hiiighhh!" I also met Uruguayan, Bruno who facilitated the pub crawls.

It was a good opening night in Hanoi but I was eager to go exploring the next day, not wishing to waste my opportunity in this incredible place. As a friend once said to me, 'You may only get to do it once!'

Wednesday 29 July 2015

China recap

Well, a month already over and then some. China has flown by me and I'm beginning to realise what it means to treasure every, single, moment. 

I've met some truly incredible people already, seen some fantastic and breathing sights and eaten some of the best grub China has to offer.

So on to my highlights of each place:


BEIJING - 24th June - 02nd July 


Top 5 moments:

- The Forbidden City.

- The Great Wall of China.

- The dumplings and duck.

- The Bird's Nest

- The food.


XI'AN - 02nd July - 06th July



Top 5 moments:

- The Terracotta Army

- The Ancient City Youth Hostel

- The Muslim Quarter 

- The Drum and Bell Towers

- The food!

SHANGHAI - 07th July - 12th July


Top 5 moments:

- The Pearl and Shanghai Towers

- The Shanghai Museum

- The French Concession

- The Chinese Tea session

- The food.

GUANGZHOU - 13th July - 21st July


Top 5 moments:

- The Hutongs

- Guangzhou Tower

- Nànyùe King's Tomb

Yuèxiù Park

- Tiahe Sports Square

HONG KONG - 21st July - 28th July


Top 5 moments:

- Victoria Peak

- Man Mo Temple

- Lantau Island

- The Star Ferry

- The Space Museum


China was incredible, I'll never forget it. A special thanks to everyone I met and spent time with. People do make the place!

Tuesday 28 July 2015

Day 35 - Hong Kong gone . . .


Day 35 - 28th July

So I slept in, ready for my flight to Hanoi but I was ready, showered and checked out before I knew it. I bid farewell to John and Lex and took the hour or so journey to the airport.

The check-in went smoothly and I indulged in some last Chinese noodles before boarding my Hong Kong airlines flight around 3:30pm.

Farewell to China. You have been an epic start to my trip, one country I will never forge for lots of different reasons, some good, some bad.

Zaijian for now.

Day 34 - Lantau Island and John's Birthday celebrations


The Giant Buddha awaits!

Day 34 - 27th July

So it was sunny! At last, yes, wicked, brilliant, fan-dab by-dozy. I could go out to play properly. 

I grabbed my stuff and headed straight out to the Metro, knowing it would take me two hours to get to my destination. 

After an hour bobbing along on the Metro from Tsim Shu Tsui to Tung Chung, I headed to the cable car up. As soon as I reached the top of the steps to the ticket booths, three things deterred me - the queue of about 200, the cost at $160 HK and finally, which should've been factor number one, the heights they reached. They weren't sturdy enough for my liking, and with the weather being the way it has, I decided to bus it.

I felt like Joan Wilder in 'Romancing the Stone' and not because of the romance novelist thing - it was like Cartagena jungle out there!

There's my cow buddy who caught up to us when we stopped.

It worked out better - it was $17.20 HK for the bus and only took 45 minutes. When I stepped off, I was greeted by a cow crapping at my feet. It was a good start.

The entranceway

Selfie before the ascension.

An incredible sight, honestly.

I ran from bottom to top, past mosquito bitten legs and tourists taking selfies in front of the Buddha. When I reached the peak, I took my hat off and slowly wandered around the Giant Buddha, just marvelling at it sheer scale and architecture. It was amazing. Definitely worth the near two hour trip and the cow crap at my feet.

This photo doesn't do it justice.

Picturesque, with the 
Po Lin Monastery to the right.

I was 9632km away from Big Ben. Ah, home!

I visited the Po Lin Monastery but out of respect for the Monks ritual, that was going on amidst the tourist incense burning, I chose not to take any close up photographs.

When I returned, John was ready to celebrate his 45th birthday in style - with beers with a fellow Dutch friend, Matthijs who was working in Hong Kong, our room mate, Korean man Lex and this English dude!

The large Bitburger.

We headed straight out for Bitburgers, a cracking drop, and hurled insults back and forwards about England and the Rest of the World. I stood my ground and we all laughed and clinked our beers in unity (ENGLAND STILL RULES, LADS).

BBQ pork and Tsingtao

We then stopped for dinner. I had a belting BBQ pork with rice and veg before we moved onto a nearby bar, with peanut shells everywhere. Seriously, it was like Planet of the Apes had actually happened and the chimps had opened a bar to celebrate.

You see!

What a combo.

Yes, we're nuts!

Matthijs and I discussed United, and it turns out he was a big Swansea fan, having lived in Wales for a few years. We became lifelong friends when he bought a round of London Pride Ales. What a guy! This was turning out to be a cracking night.

On the way back, we bid farewell to Matthijs and made our way back. Lex and I bought John a slab of cake to see his birthday out properly. Happy Birthday, John man!

I was going to be sad to leave the guys behind.

Day 33 - Mishaps in Hong Kong and meeting a local for tea and dessert

Hong Kong's 'Times Square'

Day 33 - 26th July

So I decided 'When in Rome,' or Hong Kong as it were, that I'd meet a local to see how they found life in the maze that is Hong Kong.

Enter Cleo, a local business account banker who does her work in the HSBC building (noted for its architecture and design around the world.) I was impressed. 

My attempt to meet her outside exit B of Causeway Bay station ended up in a mishap (of course it did, I'm involved) in which I waited an hour and a half for her to show, yet no appearance was made by my new Hong Kong friend. The Friends quote 'Do you think she came, saw you and left,' ran through my mind as I headed back to Kowloon. Well there were no free crab cakes but there was a lot of laughing to myself.

When I got back to my hostel, my Whatsapp buzzed and a reel of messages ensued in which Cleo had been asking where I was, how I was getting on with getting to exit B, that she was now going for a coffee and eventually where was I again.

It turns out, I was standing at exit D all along. EPIC FAIL! Having to explain we must have missed each other was not washing but she was a good sport, heading over to Kowloon to meet me. What a berk!

It's much better than it looks, especially cold.

We ended up having a great night, wandering Temple Street Market, where I picked up one of those note books for $60 HK, a steal thanks to Cleo. We went for tea and headed to a traditional Chinese dessert place. The red bean dish I had with sesame balls was great.

I was intrigued to know how life in Hong Kong was different to England. She told me about growing up, working in the bank and what movies and books she liked. She told me how mainland China was very different in its ways compared to Hong Kong, and told me I'd been say Xie Xie wrongly when saying thanks. EPIC FAIL TWO.

After walking around, we parted ways and I felt like I understood Hong Kong, and China a little more than I would have done had I been on my own. It was a fascinating insight that almost didn't happen because I couldn't read the difference between B and D, so thanks Cleo!

I was due to head to Lantau and the Giant Buddha the next day, if the rain held off. I was hoping for too much!

Day 32 - Hong Kong Island, Temples, Western Market, Star Ferry rides and beers with strangers

Bamboo scaffolding . . . what is this witchcraft?

Day 32 - 25th July

So more rain, but I wasn't going to allow it to ruin my day. I jumped straight on the Metro and headed for Hong Kong Island. By the time I reached the other side at Admiralty, the sun was out and my renewed energy kicked in.

Here's a pre metro stop at the pier before leaving Kowloon.


I headed straight for the Man Mo Temple, one of the oldest in China and paid my respects to a piece of Chinese history. It was bizarre to see such a tiny building right in the middle of all this high rise and I was glad to have seen it for myself. Definitely one not to be missed.


The Western Market was not what I'd expected, just a few stalls set up with the usual wares. I didn't spend long here, instead deciding to go take a trip on the Star Ferry.

One of the famous tram fleet.

Seven's got to be lucky, right?

One of the cruisers in the harbour.

Look at that stormy sky.

So I hopped on the Star Ferry and off I went from Hong along Island back to Kowloon. As the clouds threatened to give in to more rain, the waves became more 'choppy'. Thè boat moved up and down laboriously and I thought I was going over the side. Thankfully, all was well and five minutes or so later, I was back on solid ground.

There he is!

After behaving like a wally, I headed back to my hostel, stopping for food (of course) on the way.

Pork mince, peanuts and noodles. Not a bad combo.

Around six, I embarked on a journey. Where many dare not go! I went to an underground bar, alone. When I arrived at Delaney's, I met Ania from Poland. We'll just say she's in her thirties, very opinionated and a good laugh.

Then came Peter from Switzerland, around forty odd. He was married to a Hong Kong woman and spoke to us about his experiences travelling and about his time in China. Nice chap but he had to shoot off.

Shortly after, we were joined by an Austrian and two Americans and along with Ania, we had a game of cricket on the dartboard. I don't know if they thought being English was an advantage because I sucked at it. I managed a slight comeback, hitting a couple of bulls eyes but nevertheless, I was crap. Hey, you can't win 'em all.

It turned into an eventful night, with me and Ania running around Chung King Mansions looking for a room, but after haggling, we found one for $300 HK.