Filling in the gaps... this could take a while (2016)

2016 - sorry I'm late.

The real stuff, finally!                    Santorini happy (a little too happy, perhaps)

Well, I'm back again. A little older, not much wiser, but still with the travel stories and the bug.

Yes, I know not many read this. Yes, I know I've travelled a hell of a lot since the last post in 2015, but I thought for my own memories, if anything, I need to get this going again. So many memories are forgotten over time, so I want to have a source to always refer to and look back on fondly.

So let's get this moving.

So, as 2015 turned to 2016, I still had high hopes of returning to South East Asia to complete some unfinished business. Alas, it did not come to fruition. Such is life, that I met a girl, decided to go back to work and the rest as they say is wanderlust. I sat at the desk, itching to get going again. Through the UK summer sun (ha!) and the cold winter. Autumn and spring seemed to have passed me by.

So let me fill you in on the travels for 2016:

Ireland

It was a Corker                                          Dublin's famous Temple Bar

My partner at the time was from Ireland, near Galway to be precise. So I made numerous trips to this wonderful country and was lucky enough to see some of the best parts.

I went to the obvious places - Dublin, Cork, Limerick and Galway, but also found other places like Doolin, New Ross, Waterford, Killarney and Kerry. So much natural beauty about this country made me see why so many people talk about. And despite the weather, you can always have a great time in Ireland. 

Music is such a big part of the life there and many nights, I'd go to local pubs and taverns and have a few pints of Guinness and listen to the live music. It transports you to another place altogether, almost back in time in some respects.

Food is also a love of mine when I travel and I very much enjoyed all the stews and colcannon I could get my hands on.

Despite my personal circumstances changing, I'll always have a fondness and affection for Ireland where I visited many times over a four year period. The people, some friends and family all made my visits most welcome and homely and for that I will always be grateful.

Go raibh maith agat!

Santorini

Well, what can I say about this special island? It was magnificent and everything Instagram holds it up to be.

The famous white buildings and blue domes, the rocky streets and souvenir stalls, the restaurants and bars that overlooked the Aegean and beyond. It truly was unforgettable, and it didn't feel like 6 days was enough - even though we took out an ATV and went around the whole island.

The monastery and lighthouse are worth a visit and Perissa Beach is great for its black sands. We had a great picnic further north from Persia on Monolithos Beach and just let time pass us by. 

Loved the snorkelling

On our second day, we took a cruise from Oia, did some snorkelling and watched the sunset from the boat over dinner and drinks. Many nights, we would order a carafe of red wine and watch the sun go down behind the Oia from the top of Thira where our amazing hotel was. Antonio was a fantastic host with his family, gave us a great discount on our ATV and generally gave us great tips on where to eat locally.

Santorini is such a maze. Every area you visit on the island has a story and labyrinth streets to get lost in. I can see why so many people give it a paradise status. 

Efcharisto!

Krakow

A month later, maybe even less, I was in Krakow. Another beautiful city and country. And even in October, it can get a bit nippy.

Krakow as a city is very stunning and grand, with some architecture in the same league as Prague and Vienna (I know this now, having visited after the Krakow trip!). We enjoy the beer, the local food (the potato dumplings and red cabbage were superb) and visited a number of the sites in the city centre including the old town, the Lovers Bridge, the market square and clock tower.

On our third full day, we visited Wieliczka Salt Mine. What an incredible place this was. Deep underground (327 meters down - and the only way back up is a mine shaft lift), the mine is filled with statues and carvings of biblical figures and miners at work. There is also a lake underneath and the showpiece attraction - a chapel with grand staircases. It's a must visit for anyone going to Krakow. Definitely check it out.

The other major site we visited whilst in Krakow was the very poignant and upsetting Auschwitz and Birkenau. It took us an hour on a bus from Krakow, with an erratic bus driver delivering us shaken and stirred, but thankfully in one piece.

It difficult to describe the site of the worse mass murders in history so I'll leave that to your own imagination. I would encourage everyone to go and visit to learn about the atrocities that happened less than 100 years ago there and to raise awareness of the fantastic work that is being done there to maintain the history for future generations. I have no pictures of it because it didn't feel right, but I'm glad I visited to pay my respects.

And that will pretty much sign off 2016. What a great year for travel again. Hope you enjoy the update, albeit three years late.

Day 21 - The Tomb of the Nànyùe King, Yuèxiù Park and a stroll alongthe Wharf

I don't know why but I find these back streets fascinating.

Day 21 - 14th July

So it had been a poor start to Guangzhou so I was adamant to change things.

To think Bruce Lee walked this street just once blows my mind.

I rose early and showered, then headed out. I went straight to Changshou Lu (road), which housed a cheap clothes and food market. My main reason for being there was to get to Enning Lu, where the ancestral home of Bruce Lee stood just inside a school yard. I'm pretty sure I found the school but no house. Still it was an adventure!

I also worked out there are hardly any westerners here so far, so my presence in the midst of the locals was noticeable.

Well that came out well.

The Nànyùe King remains.

The only known seal for the king found in China. That is awesome!

This is for the Uncharted fans among us. Now we know it's true - off to Tibet!

Next, I headed for the Mausoleum of the Nànyùe King. It turns out for 12 Quan (£1.20) it was a worthwhile visit. Inside the museum part, played out on two levels, were exhibitions of more pottery, jade artefacts and a collection of 200 pillows (made from various materials, none linen) kindly donated by Mr and Mrs Yonge, private collectors. After an hour or so there, I ascend to steps to the excavation site of the tomb of the King. I also saw the biggest golden seal that has been excavated in China and the only material evidence to date that can be studied as a seal system from the Qin and Han dynasties. I thought that was pretty cool. I also saw the only remains of the King, that being part of his jaw and a section of his skull.

This is only a small part of the statue.

Love the fish!

The obligatory food pic . . . fried beef with vegetables and rice.

After that visit, I moved to Yùexiù Park to see the Five Rams statue. It was so hot, I had to rehydrate quickly but I found the statue, 38 metres wide and saw some pretty cool fish in the park lake. Once out and hydrated, I stopped for lunch at a small spot just outside the metro station. Another triumph, with this dish being beef and rice with vegetables.

I headed back for the hostel to get out of the sun (this damn humidity is relentless). I relaxed until early evening and then took a stroll to the nearby hutongs, finding some cool butchers, fresh veg stops and an electronic shop with anything pre 1995 for sale. Sod carrying that home in this heat!

The dreaded meal for two, for one.

I headed back, but found myself in a nice restaurant on the first floor, overlooking the street. As I spoke to a server who understood a little English, I managed to get pork with rice and a chocolate shake. She mentioned something about two and I just nodded and thumbs her up. She scratched her head, laughing behind the menu as I laughed with her. Shortly after, she came back with a pork and rice dish with vegetables and then a separate plate full, and I mean full of rice. She also supplied me with one chocolate milk and one iced coffee. I realised, with horror, the two meant two people!

Suddenly the pressure was on. The server and two others were watching me. I had no choice but to eat it. Starving children, I told myself. I did a Joey, 'you girls are about to see something really special,' tucking my napkin in and tucking in.

They dance, roller skate and do everything and anything on the Wharf.

And somehow I finished. Feeling bloated, I headed back and was ready to pass out. Good news: my anti-social roommate has gone, the socks do wonders! In his place, a guy from New Mexico, who I've already done my Walter White impression too. He'll remember my name . . .

Day 17 - The Jingan Temple, French Concession and Boom Boom Bagels

Stunning Temple in the middle of Shanghai

Day 17th - 10th July

With a new / old companion in tow, whatever way you look at it, Tom and I headed out to the Jingan Temple to see what it had to offer. The incense was strong in the air but I strangely found myself pensive and unable to moan. I must be getting older. 

Oh sweet mother, of all which is good and pure!

Shortly after, we popped straight across the street for A half dozen Dunkin' Donuts and a Salted a Caramel Latte. One thing I love about Shanghai is you can be immersed in history and culture one second, losing yourself through the ages and then you turn around and realise you're still in a huge metropolitan city, with Starbucks, McDonalds and the like at your disposal.

It's all good fun with the Uni kids, trying to learn English.

We then moved down to the French Concession, a particular favourite of mine from my time here in Shanghai. It's a maze of alleyways, filled with clothing, trinkets, technology, bars and eateries. You could easily spend half a day getting lost in there. I was approached by some Chinese Uni students, trying to learn the language barriers between English and Mandarin. After a brief Q and A, the obligatory picture with the westerner ensued.

A bottle of Guinness was a new experience.

We stopped off for couple of beers, of course, at a little street bar in the Concession called Friends. A Guiness and aTsingtao were just the ticket as we watched the world go by. My attempts to interact with a local and two accompanying Americans broke off as quickly as the umbrella I bought. As soon as I opened it, it snapped and crumpled in a heap to the floor. That's what 1 Quan will get you! I was told I should learn more Chinese so I could interact properly. Swivelling around on my stool made my thoughts clear on the subject.

One for you Mumma, but too much to ship home I'm afraid!

We headed out in the evening to Boom Boom Bagels, another hang out and work joint for Mike and Co. The shredded beef was delightful on a plain bagel with salad. A smooth ale washed it down nicely. The windows had begun rattling furiously and whispers reached my ears that two typhoons were on the way, moving across the Pacfic to the coast of China.

Undeterred, we headed for DogTown to bid farewell to a crazy assed Skiwi (a KiWi with an S), a Canadian who lost his Ray Bans and a guy from Southampton, who was glad Tom and I knew where he was from, because no once else had a clue. I pointed them towards the first ten minutes of Titanic!

Again, we ended up in the sports bar with Mike, with more nachos and beers. It was low key and I also got to see Murray get dominated by Federer. Ah, the simple pleasures . . .

Day 16 - Back at the Bund and Dog Town

Why do I keep thinking of the Crystal Maze . . . Mummsie!

Day 16 - 9th July

Another humid day, with thick clouds covering the skyscrapers brought more skepticism as to how long it would be until a storm would begin . . .

I headed down to the Shanghai Science and Technology Museum on the other side of the river, hoping to see some cool gadgets and glimpses at the future. Instead I was treated to long queues, children running around aimlessly and street sellers trying to get me to buy trinkets and 'silk' scarfs. I don't know if they thought the best way of getting to my money was to avoid offering me magnets and postcards and instead offering me fake silk scarves, which could be worn around my neck whilst I walked the city,  but I walked away empty handed. To say I was tempted would be an overstatement.

As I reached the ticket booth, I decided the 60 Quan fee for entry was a bit too much, so I hopped back on the subway and went to the Oriental Pearl Tower. More kids and parents. It was then I came to my senses, admittedly it doesn't happen often, and I realised it was the school holidays! Of course it was, it's bloody July. 

So a short stroll along the muggy Bund and I thought what could I do that's different, that I've never done before? Then it came to me . . . I've never seen a movie on my own, and especially a movie where subtitles would be present. I found a nearby mall which anyone who knows me knows I was desperate because a. I hate shopping and b. I hate shopping. This was seven storeys of pure torture. No shopping precinct should take you fifteen minutes to get to the top. When I arrived at the cinema, I looked for Terminator Genesys. Nope, not showing, yet five screens were showing Jurassic World within the space of half an hour of each other. I know 24 million people need catering for but that slightly overdoing it.

I headed back to RockandWood and settled in to do some writing. A few hours passed and an old acquaintance from Xi'an, in the form of Tom, the Gravesend guy from back home. My almost two days of silence that any monk would be proud of was over.

'Michael you came . . .'  'That's what she said.' Yes, this is Michael Scott.

That evening we set off to meet some guys Tom had met in Hong Kong. They worked at a little place called DogTown, a side of the road, four stall pop up bar that did tacos, and boy were they good! I also met Tom's Hong Kong buddy, Michael Scott, and being a big American Office fan I almost fell off my chair. Also working with him was a chirpy Irish chap called Charlie who persuaded me to go for a DogTown cocktail - punching close to 85% alcohol, 15% something else. It was great to chill out, meeting other Americans, Australians and some locals. We headed to a sports bar shortly after, had some nachos and beer and then headed home at 2am.

And I was greeted by more snoring . . .

Day 12 - The Xi'an Finale

Fu - meaning Happiness and Luck. This is upside down, meaning happiness is coming . . .

Day 12 - 05th July

So it was last day in Xi'an. In true Xi'an tradition, or roughly translated, every morning since I've been here, Clinton and I went for breakfast. This time he indulged in dumplings with some form of purée inside whilst I went for a Madeira type, white sponge cake. Something different but it did the trick.

After heading down to grab a magnet for my mum (it sounds tacky, but she'll have a whole collection of every destination when I get home) and a postcard for my nanna (same principle, just in card - my nanna doesn't have Facebook or Twitter), I headed back to see Clinton and Sean off. I missed Sean by a few minutes but got the chance to bid farewell to Clinton. Good luck guys on your travels.

Since then, I've chilled out in the hotel bar area (no beer, I might add) and did some writing. I'm currently working on part one, second draft of a four part book series. It won't distract me from my travels but I can't stop writing altogether. It's my passion, my gift, my curse - who am I? I'm writerdan (movie buffs will understand).

Tomorrow I leave for Shanghai on an epic 20 hour night sleeper train. Be prepared for a new blog post with me moaning it up, probably.

Xi'an has been epic. The Terracotta Soldiers were unbelievable, the city was majestic and again, the food and people made a fantastic experience. 

On to my next adventure . . .

Day 11 - Bell and Drum Towers and Muslim District

Day 11 - 04th July

So with a taste for a good broth, Clinton and I headed out for more. This time we changed the vendor but the outcome was as delicious. This time we tried a herby bread with it and it was amazing.

We moved to the Bell Tower and Drum Tower for quick photo opportunities. The place was buzzing with tourists and the midday heat was beginning to rise.

Clinton's suggestion to explore the Muslim District was a challenge I relished. As soon as we entered the strip, it was evident this was going to be a challenge. The place was packed. Stalls sizzled with skewers, Chinese hamburgers and other meat dishes. Bottles of water were sprayed on the fruit to keep it fresh and succulent. Souvenir sellers called to us, requesting we take a look at their stock. All in all, it was chaos. But in a good way!

After trying a yoghurt drink, favoured by the locals, Clinton and I indulged in a Chinese Hamburger or a shredded beef patty with chilli sauce in a toasted round bread. The result - moorish. I could've eaten ten of them.

How small is the guy in the distance?

We moved on to one of the oldest mosques in China (no photos taken out of respect and the fact my phone battery died). The architecture was exquisite and the elders sitting in the entrance in a deep discussion whilst others prayed in the prayer rooms added to the atmosphere. We were the only westerners in there but the whole place was peaceful and a perfect place for reflection.

When we returned, we chilled out with Sean, who decided to return home to the U.S. I'm devastated I can't do my Jason Statham impressions to him anymore, but I'm pleased he can get back home after five months travelling to see his family and get himself an In n Out Burger (lucky son of a gun). Best of luck Seany boy, who became like a little brother in Beijing and Xi'an. Good luck with the studies.

Dumpling making in our hostel

A special mention also to any American reading on this day - it was my sister in law's birthday . . .  just kidding, happy Independence Day guys! And to my sister in law, Siobhan. It really was her birthday!

Day 10 - Terracotta Army and DIY dinners

Despite the initial appearance, no two statues are the same!

Day 10 - 03rd July

So, I woke up in a different dorm with different faces. Two Chinese guys and an American from Washington DC called Clinton.

Whasoup' man?

After brief introductions and a shower (not together), Clinton and I headed down the street to find some breakfast. We stopped off at a convenience store for waters before heading to a roadside breakfast place serving yangrou paomo (羊肉泡馍 ), a broth type dish that has noodles, mutton and broth in the bowl and then you. Add crumbling bread to it. I'm more of a bacon sandwich or porridge man for breakfast but I tried it all the same. Turns out it was delicious and at 3 Yuan each, or a ridiculous  30p, I had no complaints.

My attempts to raise Sean before 9am were pointless. The lad was out. In the process, I woke his roommate Tom up who hails from Kent, England just like me. Once the team was assembled like a bad Avengers movie, the four of us headed to the train station to catch a bus to the army site.

After a cheeky beer, we headed in and marvelled at some extraordinary craftsmanship and sheer scale of the Terracotta Army. It was broken into three sites, and thanks to Lonely Planet, we did them in reverse order, from smallest to largest and boy was it worth it.

We joked about a domino effect, knocking one soldier over and watching them all go but I think that would have been too extreme. I am still trying to figure out how they did it without a mould. It's ludicrous. Definitely one site worth visiting if you ever make it to China.

We came back and were convinced by a local who had befriended Sean to go to an all you can eat restaurant. It was evident we had made a serious mistake when we realised the beer was warm, you had to cook your own meat and their were pissed Chinese men everywhere. Oh and a serving of China's finest spew greeted me on entrance to the bathroom.

When we returned back to hostel, Tom bid us goodnight for his onward journey the next morning whilst Sean, Clinton and I enjoyed a few more beers and had a long talk (details have been omitted to maintain dignity).

Just before we left, a chap from Taiwan came in to buy us a Glenfidditch each. A nice way to round off another great day in China!

Day 7, 8 and 9 - Goodbyes and Moving on to Xi'an

Day 7 - 30th June

So it was a really uneventful day, just relaxing and winding down before Will's departure to Munich to go and Au Pair for a family for two years. we took a final walk around the Hutong, taking in the atmosphere and just enjoying Beijing's wonders.

of course we sat in the bar and watched the locals go by, taking photos of the westerners within. We played cards, laughed about our adventures and said our goodbyes. A fitting end to an awesome first stop on my trip.

I Skype home and then sat up with Will and Halil until they checked out at 5:30 am.

Farewell chaps, safe travels wherever you go! Thanks for the memories.

Day 8 - 01st July

I woke up to find my door pass didn't work. A quick check of my booking showed me I'd book a day less than I should had done. 80 Yuan later and I'm wondering what wrong.

Sean and I headed to the the train station and got our train tickets for Xi'an. It was chaos, as everywhere else was. A good tip - if you're ever in Beijing West train station, go to booth 16, which is he English speaking booth. 

He had a night train for Xi'an, twelve hours from 8pm. Good luck to him, he was going to need it.

Day 9 - 02nd July

After a restless night, I checked out at 6am and headed for the train station. As you do, I waited, I boarded and then I set off on the 6 hour journey to Xi'an, sitting next to a friendly Canadian chap from Ontario, his wife and his two cracking daughters. I thank the world for small pleasures!

When I arrived in Xi'an, I got in and in true fashion, just like Beijing, I crashed for the evening. Welcome to Xi'an, Daniel Son.

Day 6 - Great Wall Shenanigans

A step too far . . .

Day 6 - 29th June

After dreams of Gary Oldman being my dad and painting over suspicious looking red patches in our cellar with blue paint, it was time to get up, shower and get to the Great Wall of China. Oh boy If only I'd known what was about to happen on this eventful day, I'd probably stayed in bed . . . no actually, I love a good caper.

The day started with a McDonalds breakfast accompanied with a warm carton of milk that had curdled. Doesn't matter, I'll be at The Wall soon, I told myself.

So, Will, Amanda and Halil joined me, travelling from Qianmen to Dongzhimen and then on to board bus 916 to Mutianyu. No problems, we were on our way and I was a closer to riding the toboggan off of the Great Wall - the only reason I'd actually visited Beijing. I'm grateful for everything else I saw, mind you.

So the others slept whilst I listened to my iPod. A Thousand Miles had never sounded better. Suddenly, a man jumps on the bus, yelling at me 'Off, off. Mutianyu, Mutianyu.' The others awoke and in their unconscious state, my state of shock and the lack of reaction from everyone else on the bus, we all jumped off. As the bus disappeared, he announced he was a mini van driver who would take us to Mutianyu. We'd been duped.

So we ignored his hustling and jumped back on the next 916 bus ten minutes later, annoyed we had to pay the bus fare again!

When we reached the Mutianyu bus station, we were set upon by another driver in a white shirt, who followed us down the street and back again when we searched for a better transfer to The Wall.

Eventually we found a cab who took us for a reasonable price. When we arrived, Will and Halil went to the bathroom and were knocked into by the white shirt driver who was pretty pissed that we hadn't used his services. When the reconvened with Amanda and me, the guy walks up to me and hits me with his photo sample placard, twice. We then had a stare off, which I'm happy to announce I won, before we headed off to the wall, him scowling and cursing behind us.

The Great Wall was misty and rainy. To compile more misery on our already crappy start to the day, we were informed the toboggan was closed! FML! All this way and it's rained off. Typical.

Adamant, it would not ruin our day, we set off on a mammoth step trek to the actual wall, which I think included over 300 steps. Once on the wall, we stepped up, then down and so on. Then it rained heavily and it was so misty, we couldn't see the distant parts of The Wall (I told you I like a good moan).

But when he rain stopped, the mist cleared, The Wall was awesome. A sight to behold, I was quite simply in awe.  Huge level of respect for the workmanship and effort it in to build the only thing visible from space. My day was getting better!

After Amanda hiked the whole section and returned to us lads, we headed back to find a cab. And in line with our luck, the guy who pulled us off the bus ran towards me, harassing me again. FML again! Things took a turn for the worse when we negotiated a mini van trip with three Australians. The man nudged me and pointed his bony finger at me, cursing. By this point, I was pissed off so I just walked away from him.

When we finally reached Beijing, we enjoyed more beer in the bar, laughing about our eventful day with Sean (who'd been sleeping).

A great day to remember!