Day 147 - Off to Koh Samui

Sitting on the dock of the bay, wasting time.

Day 147 - 17th November

So we were finally leaving Phuket and after the night before's horror show, we were probably better off that way.

We loaded up into a mini van and set off for the east side of Thailand and ultimately Koh Samui.

We made the usual stops as we had coming from Bangkok to Phuket, and after indulging in a few skewers for breakfast followed by a cornetto and some mentos, we were crusing towards Koh Samui.

We had a couple of hours stop over between 12pm and 2pm, where we had a little lunch and sat passing the time away with elegant banter (HAHA) and card games. I love that you get dropped off in the middle of the sticks and you just have to trust that the locals will get you to your destination safely.

By 5:30pm, we were on the dock, waiting to board the ferry across to Koh Samui. A group of English backpackers were there too and my Dutch companions I seem to get everywhere I go (that's not a bad thing, good people the Dutch, it's just they are always there).

On the ferry, Matt passed out and Kel felt a little queasy. By the time we reached Koh Samui, I was just ready to get settled again - for one night!

The pre-arranged mini bus took us three quarters of the way around the island, dropping us off on the east side on Lamai Beach. I can compare the mini bus journey to a Thai boxing match as two sister threw a swing at each other - to be fair, the woman who hit out first did need to use the bathrrom and the driver was refusing to stop for a good 2km!

 They left us at the Sand and Sea resort whilst we walked back down and headed to Vanda House, ignoring the advice giving by the mini bus driver to walk a little further down to New Hut resort - not one of my finest moments. I mean, Vanda was nice and all, the staff were friendly and the rooms were magnificent but the New Hut was apparently huts on Lamai Beach (Don't tell Kel and Dave, for Christ sake).

We walked down the ghost town street (there was literally nothing open and it was pitch black) and stopped at a cracking little Curry place. The woman there was really great, friendly and produced some fantastic food and lemon shakes for us at a decent price. When we asked how long she'd been open, she said "Oh, 7 days."

Not bad digs.

Dave and I came back with a loud response of "Seven days?!" which made her laugh. She told us she'd lived on Samui for 25 years working in a hotel before getting slightly disillusioned with life living on an island and returned to mainland. After a few years, she returned and set up her curry place. Quite a nice feel good story for my readers and I hope she thrives here. It's definitely one to try if you're down near Lamai Beach anytime (it can be found opposite Coffee World).

Afterwards, we went back to Vanda and bid farewell to Matt. Dave, Kel and I would be going to Koh Tao in the morning.

Day 100 - I made it! A century, not out yet.

Happy 100 Days of Travelling to me!

Day 100 - 01st October

Well, 100 days since I left home. God, how the time has flown. It seems like yesterday I stepped off that plane in Beijing and thought to myself, 'I'm never going to make this!'

I've been to so many fantastic places - China (Beijing, Xi'an, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Hong Kong), Vietnam (Hanoi, Sapa, Halong Bay, Phong Nha, Huè, Hoi An, Nha Trang, Dalat, Mui Ne and Ho Chi Minh) and now Cambodia (Siem Reap and Phomn Penh). I've seen some quite incredible sights, met some awesome people and you know what the great thing is? The adventure is still going!

It had been a late night on Wednesday, Skyping my brother and then Mum and Dad. Again, everyone is well and it was good to hear my bro as if he was here with me.

Over breakfast I enjoyed eggs and jam and edited my book again. It's almost ready for the volunteers to read for me so I'm pretty excited about that.

I swam forty lengths and then headed to the office for my weekly meetings. Unfortunately DK was sick so we didn't have any meetings so I headed back to Bou Savy to continuing my editing. It is sometimes a lot more difficult than actually thinking about what to put on the page. You have to be alert for any silly mistakes (there are plenty during the drafting stage) and also it is crucial that everything makes sense. Sometimes, I write so fast, I don't re-read until later and by then, I've forgot the rhythm I'm in. A writer's life aye?

My washing facilities.

I did a little laundry, Dan Millen style (a bar of soap and a sink) and hung it up to dry!

My washing line!

I felt the twinge on my foot again so gave football a miss but the other Big Willy boys showed up to win 9-8. Great stuff chaps!

After a long day of reading, I went to bed ready for a long day ahead on Friday. 8 sessions!

Find out more about Globalteer Sports Project on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/GlobalteerSportsProject

Day 99 - Lunch on the job!

I'll never get fed up with this place!

Day 99 - 30 September

It's suppose to be wet season, so why is there all this sun? I suppose I shouldn't complain. Only a month ago I was moaning about the amount of rain I'd been subjected to in China and Vietnam. Sun is good, sun is good. No more moaning about it.

I packed my lunch up ready for the day at Project C. The bumpy road leading us there kept me wide awake after my restless night's sleep. I dreamt something bad had happened to my dad and it was so real, I woke up in a real panic. I even text my dad to make sure he was OK! It's funny how dreams do that.

The morning session went really well, although DK told me my fifteen minute warm ups were getting shorter - I was finishing them in seven minutes or less without even realising. This has now been noted and I will have those kids hopping and skipping around for a good fifteen minutes.

The kids ran around in the sun, laughing and pushing each other innocently which brought smiles to mine and DK's face. By the time lunch rolled around, we were well and truly ready to eat!

I had pork noodles, vegetable crackers and a banana whilst DK had his mum's homemade pork and rice.

The afternoon session were taught out in the glorious sunshine (see, I'm trying to be positive about the sun) and the kids had DK and I laughing multiple times. All in all, it was another great day out.

By the end of the day, DK and I were done!

The view from the cafe moments before the heavens opened.

You see!

I headed out to my new favourite spot, the Khmer Cafe 168 for some Lok Lac and a delightful stack of banana pancakes. I wouldn't have had dessert had it not been for the rain that had me pegged back and unable to cycle back. It was bucketing down.

This addiction is down to my Vietnam group who got me hooked on these in just three weeks! Thanks guys!

Find out more about Globalteer Sports Project on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/GlobalteerSportsProject

Day 97 - New week, new missions

I'm rolling around Siem Reap on this new baby. She's a smooth ride.

Day 97 - 28th September

A change, I'm back on the banana pancakes for breakfast. I've missed those round waffles of magic. The side of pineapple also makes me feel better for having a portion of fruit with it (the banana inside the pancakes doesn't count because it's dowsed in syrup).

Our weekly sports for social impact meeting saw us continue with the sport of volleyball but move on to a new child right - freedom. Such an important right as well for so many kids in Cambodia.

We were given the new game by Charlie to set up a giant square with one attacker in the middle. The attacker had to spike a ball waist height or below into the other kids trying to escape. When they were hit, the kids would have to cover their mouths so they couldn't call for help. This effectively takes away their freedom to move and seek assistance when needed.

We would then introduce a person who could 'untag' them by high fiving them when they called out for help. giving them back their freedom to play. We would follow this up with a question to see if they understood the message.

More warm ups.

So in the afternoon, Project A were our test run. They handled it well and seemed to pick up the message fairly quickly in the first session. The second session was full of smaller children so we played a bib game I came up with that needed the kids to put bibs over the tops of cones as quickly as they could in 15 seconds whilst two attackers tried to prevent them doing so by throwing the bibs off.

This went down well with the kids who loved the power of throwing stuff around whilst laughing out loud. Mission success!

Love those $1.25 nachos and the 50¢ Angkor draft.

In the evening, I went out for another swim (it's part of the routine now) before I headed to a Mexican for nachos and relaxed ready for a full day at Project B on Tuesday. Please, please, let it be overcast or colder. I don't mind which, as long as the heat doesn't rise!

Find out more about Globalteer Sports Project on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/GlobalteerSportsProject

Day 88 - Completing a script, Goals for Girls and Charlie's bar!

A great way to start the day!

Day 88 - 19th September

I woke at 6am after a restless sleep. Yeah, I went to bed by ten the night before but from 1am onwards, I was tossing and turning. I think I was worrying about my script, hoping and praying that this time it will be my break!

So I went down to breakfast for 6:45 and began writing. The hard boiled eggs were a nice extra to my writing and finally I finished editing!

By the time I'd finished, I realised five hours had almost passed and I needed to be at the Globalteer offices for the Goals for Girls certificate presentation. This initiative gives young girls the chance to lead. Their awards this time were for organising and running the Globalteer games - a summer Olympics, I believe.

The presentation begins . . .

The turn out was fantastic. The girls were all excited but as usual, shy as anything. When Charlie told them to help themselves to food and drink, barely anyone moved.

The Goals for Girls, girls.

The certificate presentation went off without a hitch and it was great to see so many young people being rewarded for their hard efforts. Well done to all.

I headed back and Skyped home. I spoke to my Nanna, whose doing well and Mum and Dad, who were also good. It was nice to hear their voices after a long week. 

Later, I headed to Charlie's bar for Chelsea v.s. Arsenal with Charlie. He brought his wife's niece along to, who works at one of the schools on our program so it was nice to be able to see a couple of familiar faces on a night out. I also struck up a conversion with another English guy, who was travelling through.

Beer and Jäger Bombs flowed and soon I was heading out of Charlie's bar regretting my drinking decisions. But, it's the first and last time I get drunk in Cambodia. The Tuk Tuk ride back was a bumpy experience and one I don't care to repeat anytime soon!

Day 77 - Whose the bigger kid here?

My views on the way to projects!

Day 77 - 08th September

You know the drill now - banana pancakes to start the day.

Shortly after digesting this, I found out Mr Barang, the awesome Tuk Tuk driver was taking us places for the week, which brought some cheer to the early morning.

We headed to the project that we'd be spending all day at with a mission to have them understanding that going through all the stages of schooling (primary through to university) that they'd have a great opportunity to find a good job and fulfil their dreams.

When we arrived, I found myself running around after some of the little ones, swinging off the trees and blowing raspberries at some of them. It left me thinking whose the bigger kid in these situations.

We had fun, nonetheless.

Our lessons consisted of DK teasing the children and interrupting my warm up drills with me then chasing him around whilst trying to keep the kids moving. All in good fun though.

Following the conclusion of the last session, we headed back to Bou Savy and then I was straight out for football training by Samakee Market. I biked over, which turned out to be an interesting experience, dodging potholes and other vehicles on my way to the game.

When I reached the game, we had some new team mates and we went on a rampage, winning the game 9-4. This team has promise and I'm looking forward to seeing how we will progress in the league. Roll on Thursday!

I met Dan and Abigail on the way back at The Triangle BBQ restaurant and had some pretty bad yellow noodles. It's the first time I've had cause to moan about food on this trip but as they say 'there's a first time for everything'.

Find out more about Globalteer Sports Project on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/GlobalteerSportsProject

Day 75 - Cheerio Phomn Penh

Busy morning markets in Phomn Penh!

Day 75 - 06th September

So DK and I were up early to find the market which happened to be a block around the corner from our hostel. We wandered through the various alleyways, looking at the wares the sellers were offering before we returned to 11 Backpackers Hostel.

The site map of 'The Killing Fields' at The Chuoeung Genocidal Center

I couldn't help still thinking about the brutality of the Khmer Rouge and the Pol Pot Regime. The sheer scale was shocking. It definitely something that is going to take some time to process.

The museum.

DK went to meet a friend whilst Dan, Abigail and I went to the National Cambodian Museum and then the market to find a bargain. I came away empty handed but Dan picked up a pair of shoes for his mum whilst Abigail said how they wouldn't fit her own feet because her feet were a similar size, but 'wider'. Dan and I caught each other's eye and moved on swiftly, not wishing to be drawn in to a potentially dangerous situation.

The bus collection was at 1:30pm and before I knew it, we were back on the road.

The 11 Backpacker's Hostel

Stunning countryside, despite the history.

It was a long journey, with thunderstorms, lack of air conditioning and selfies from Abigail (so many selfies). DK and I went through some English papers, with him reading to me. He's getting on really well and his pronunciation of words is getting better every day.

The bus journey back, which I've done twice now!

We arrived back in Siem Reap close to 9pm.

DK was picked up by his friend. Dan, Abigail and I went to a restaurant for a late dinner and we all looked buggered. After they'd finished 'another' Italian meal, we made our way tiredly back to Bou Savy.

It had been a great weekend, but very emotional at times. My respect levels for the Cambodian strength and courage has gone off the radar!

Day 74 - Phomn Penh and the Killing Fields

The memorial in S21 Tuol Sleng

Day 74 - 05th September

So we arrived in Phomn Penh after an eventful night on the VB bus. The drop off in the centre of town was into a square of Tuk Tuks, salesmen and women and buses, speeding by. Lots going on and lots to be excited about for the weekend.

We jumped on a $4 Tuk Tuk to our hostel and arrived at 11 Backpackers Hostel. It was right in the heart of central Phomn Penh and I was looking forward to seeing the reactions of the other three when we reached the dorm rooms.

After a spot of breakfast, mine was an awesome Snickers pancake, DK went to meet some old school friends whilst Abigail, Dan and I went to Tuol Sleng (S21) - the facility that housed over 14,000 prisoners and only a shocking seven survived!

It was very emotional and looking at the faces of past, beaten, battered and bruised, you couldn't help feeling disgusted by members of our race. How people can do this to others is beyond me. The Pol Pot regimes were cowardly, callous and just pure evil.

There are no photos because I couldn't bring myself to show them on this blog.

A brave survivor, Bou Meng whose wife was tortured and murdered at S21.

One photo I am happy to share is of this man, Mr Bou Meng, who saw his wife tortured and murdered here, all of which he witnessed. The courage of this man is commendable and I'm proud to show him on this blog.

Dan was tired.

The Memorial Stupa, that houses the victims remains.

We all were subdued, as Jordy, Sèbastien and I had been after the museum in Ho Chi Minh. We left the prison to go forty minutes to The Chuoeung Genocidal Center or one of the Killing Fields.

This tour came with an audio guide so the experience was heightened to explain the atrocities committed on the site. Children were torn from their mothers and their skulls crushed against the 'Killing Tree'. Women were worked like animals from 4am to 12am without more than one meal a day so they couldn't feed their children properly; many were raped before being killed. The men were no different. 

The shallow impressions in the ground that looked like shell craters were their eventual graves. Bodies were tossed their and DTT was added to cover the smell of decay. The level of mass murder here was unbelievable.

The most chilling story I heard on the tour was the re-telling of the night time killings. The Khmer Rouge (Pol Pot's men) would play loud music from the 'Magic Tree' and turned on a generator to mask the screams of their victims. When they did a reconstruction, the hairs on my neck stood up.

At the end of the tour, I visited the Memorial Stupa, which housed 9,000 skulls and the ways in which they had been murdered - bayonet, bullet, axe and so on. Looking at these skulls was surreal. It felt like I was looking at movie props.

I came away feeling guilty. I don't know why, maybe because the western world had not stepped in or maybe because the killings were so savage, I really don't know, but the trip back to Phomn Penh gave me plenty of time to think.

My tequila sunrise.

In the afternoon, Dan, Abigail and I chilled out with some cocktails and burgers. It was nice to relax and reflect. We spent a good few hours, letting the world go by.

No caption required.

We found the Phomn Penh night market setting up for the evening and wandered around in search of a bargain for Abigail. We failed!

Back at the hostel, we found a smiling DK, who had been out with his friends and had enjoyed a great day. He topped his day off by beating Abigail at pool!

A tasty Khmer curry.

We went to the Noodle House for dinner. I had a Khmer red curry before attempting to find the Night Market again. Our excursion took us around the streets of Phomn Penh, with very little looking like the market. It took me half an hour before I worked out that we were miles away from it (I say miles, I mean 20 minutes or so) so we retreated back to 11 Backpackers Hostel.

It had been a long day, emotionally draining and I was looking forward to a good sleep. Within minutes, I was already gone!

Day 72 - Morning lessons, English teaching sessions and debut for Big Willy F.C

This is how I roll to my volunteer work these days - on a Tuk Tuk.

Day 72 - 03rd September

So I started my day off right with a banana pancake. I ate rapidly as I headed closer to my project and when we pulled up, the kids swamped us, trying to get the balls and cones. 

The new project was busy with children of all ages but soon DK and I had them all in lines, running our drills and having fun. Volleyball is actually a lot more fun than I thought it would be.

I'm finding that the kids are giving us a good range of child rights, with each NGO providing its own unique feedback to us. Whilst some opt for the mainstream rights like education, food, health etc, others are finding new answers like improvement to the community, respecting culture and gaining sponsorship for a better life. It's quite interesting to be a part of.

The unprepared shot.

L-R: Srey Mom, DK, Sitha and Vith.

After the morning sessions, we headed back to Globalteer where I took an afternoon English lesson with DK again to review his evening assignment. This time, we had new participants, in the form of Srey Mom, Sitha and Vith. I was happy to oblige. 

We went through connecting words and tenses. They all grasped the idea quickly and it was actually great fun to teach adults so English. DK's assignment was really good, a few grammatical errors as expected, but on the whole, he's on good form to learn the bits of English he will need to help him progress.

They even gave me my lucky number!

Later that night, I had my debut for Big Willy F.C. - my boss, Charlie's team. We lost narrowly 3-1, having had many chances but I did managed to get on the score sheet to add a consolation so it was a good start with my new team. A few more games together and I'm sure we'll be picking up points.

Well, what a day. Again, but I'm seriously loving Cambodia at the moment! I don't want it to end.

Find out more about Globalteer Sports Project on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/GlobalteerSportsProject

Day 69 - first official Monday teaching

Look at that baby go!

Day 69 - 31st August

So after a great weekend, I was ready to begin again with Globalteer.

I changed up my breakfast habit with a fruit salad, complete with Apple, Banana and Pineapple. I'll openly admit I missed the pancake.

I met with DK and Charlie for our morning sports meeting. Srey Mom was on leave for the week so we discussed how I was going to do the 15 minute warm ups with the kids which would then be followed by DK's child rights session, the object being to ask the kids what they think their rights are as a child whilst infusing it with sport - the next five weeks being volleyball.

Told you.

I was introduced to my new Tuk Tuk driver of the week, Vimol. Quiet but a nice guy. He filled up on petrol on the way out at a ready made gas station - kids come out with glass bottles of petrol to fill up the tanks. It's astounding.

We headed to school D for afternoon sessions, an hour drive from Bou Savy. 

School D is very remote, a long way out of the city, in the heart of the countryside. The kids here were so much fun, some of the younger ones are incredibly adorable and innocent in their ways, trying to get involved whilst the bigger kids either let them or just take control. 

All the kids are fantastic and it just makes it so easy to work with them.

I set up drills, whereby each team split into two and one went to one end of the yard, the other to the far end. One by one, they had to push the ball above their heads, making their way across the yard until they reached a team mate. This would continue, back and forth until everyone had been. Some were really good, others not so much but the main thing was they had fun.

I then asked them to do it in pairs, then threes and then finally as a group. They loved it, screaming excitedly and laughing as they did so. DK and I joined in with them and it was a great first real warm up for me.

When we finished, we had another class, but as per usual, the rain came down, and I mean came down. It was almost hail, so we retreated to one of the classrooms where a spelling contest was unfolding. The kids involved, six of them, knew there could only be three winners and all their classmates were getting behind them. It was great fun to watch!

On the way back, Vimol became stuck in the rain and mud so DK and I had to push him out of it.

Finally, we made our way back to Bou Savy. I met up with Dan and Abigail and we went for dinner at a small restaurant, just off of pub street. The noodles were incredible.

Afterwards, we went to Angkor What?, a backpackers bar and had beers and cocktails. And then the madness began...

I went to Angkor supermarket, picked up two packets of Cream-O cookies and went to town. Within five minutes, the first packet was gone (I did share though). By the time I went to sleep, the second was almost gone. I've got to stop buying them because they are so addictive.

After a long day of puddle jumping, Tuk Tuk pushing and cookie scoffing, I passed out.

Find out more about Globalteer Sports Project on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/GlobalteerSportsProject

Day 67 - Sunrise and Angkor Wat

My 4:30 am game face.

Day 67 - 29th August

My first full weekend in Cambodia. Another day, another dollar as they say - well it is here as everything is literally a dollar!

It was 4:15 am, a time I knew only too well from my travels around Asia. Instead of greeting it like an old friend, I stuck two fingers up and rolled over with my duvet, until my alarm eventually woke me at 4:30am.

The younguns.

I met Dan and Abigail outside in the dark at 5am and Mr Barang, our Goobalteer Tuk Tuk driver collected us for the day. After a brief five or six kilometre drive, we arrived at the Angkor Wat ticket station. An exchange of $20 dollars and a photograph for ID on the ticket was the price to pay to get in.

Stunning place. No wonder it's claimed as the 7th wonder of the world.

Shortly after, we went to Angkor Wat, the main temple on this mammoth 400km2 site and waited with hundreds, even thousands of others for the sun to come up. It was quite a sight, perhaps not as spectacular as my hot air balloon over the Nile at sunrise but definitely something I will remember from the trip.

After sunrise.

Trying to be artistic. I think it works.

It really is amazing to stand before this place. The picture do it no justice.

We walked through the temples, marvelling at the architecture and the sheer scale of some of the rooms and corridors. It really was something to behold. For the first time, words cannot describe this site so I'll let the pictures do the talking.

It's a huge, complex maze of corridors, courtyards and towers.

The back entrance to Angkor Wat temple.

After visiting Angkor Wat, we went to Angkor Thom and the stunning Bayon temple, which was a larger site and we were able to climb to the top for some awesome photos. 

Group shot!

At Angkor Thom site at the Bayon Temple. Look at that tan!

The bridge entrance to Angkor Thom

Again, incredible and mind blowing stuff at the Bayon Temple.

The smiley face.

The incredible Baphuon Temple.

From inside the courtyard.

View from the top of Baphuon Temple, it was quite the hike up those steps.

Mr Barang, our loyal Tuk Tuk driver. What a great guy!

Ta Prohm was another magnificent site, the detail on these temples is beautiful.

The 'Tomb Raider' temple and me!

Now the group picture!

The famous tree on the other side.

When we returned to Siem Reap around lunchtime, I went to work on more sports articles. What should have taken an hour took six. I was so engrossed I lost track of time. I managed to write the articles to a standard I was happy with. Just six more published and they start paying me! 

Abigail, Dan and I headed out and found Little India, a nice spot on the Main Street for curry. My non-vegetarian Thali (I assume that is just a meat Thali then) was delicious and at only $5 with a drink, it was a bargain.

We all headed back for a night swim before getting an early night. It had been a truly long day.

Special note - Mr Barang, our Tuk Tuk driver: thank you very much for an awesome day, you really did make it much easier and convenient to get around and your patience in waiting hours for us was much appreciated. A definite recommendation to anyone going to Siem Reap.